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I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Pajero LWB GLS with the 3.0L V6 and there’s a very strong smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin when driving with the windows down. However once the windows are up and the A/C is turned on I can no longer smell them. It is extremely bad in the rear seat area. I have changed the left side exhaust manifold as it had a crack and had the exhaust system thoroughly checked for leaks but none were found.. I also had the rear door readjusted and checked for the proper seal and all’s well there too.. Does anyone have the slightest idea what else could be causing this and a fix for it? I went ahead and blocked off the EGR valve just in case because I noticed that there was a bit of white smoke from the tailpipe on start up and after a hard run. Also when I was changing the left side manifold there seemed to be more soot in the exhaust port of the LH rear cylinder from which the EGRV is fed. The smell is still there after all that. Any ideas anyone? (GLS)
Submitted: 25/11/2013 11:03:29 | ID: 23438
I have black smoke from my Mitsubishi Shogun on start up just for a minute or so, then I drive at 30mph for 10 minutes then kick down and it puffs smoke again. Can anyone explain why?
Submitted: 25/11/2013 10:51:16 | ID: 23433
I have a Mitsubishi Shogun Pajero model 1994 chassis number CHNV-340-SJ000291 and engine number 4D56-GD7914. Please can anybody help me confirm the above detals so that I can have a clear history of my car?
Submitted: 22/11/2013 11:21:01 | ID: 23379
My Mitsubishi Shogun`s headlghts don`t work from the light stalk, no heads and no main beam. I have tried the bulbs and they`re okay. It seems to be a fault between the switch and lights? All fuses are okay but it may be the relay, but I dont know where it is? Can anyone help? Thanks.
Submitted: 21/11/2013 10:34:31 | ID: 23303
My Mitsubishi Shogun Elegance has a problem only when it hasn’t been used for a few days. Starting from cold, when put into drive it`s non responsive, then it jolts and starts moving and is fine after that. Has anybody experienced this problem or know what is causing this? (Elegance)
Submitted: 18/11/2013 10:50:09 | ID: 23178
I just bought a 1995 Mitsubishi Shogun Mini Pajaro turbo with automatic transmission. When I put the transmission selector in DRIVE it stays in third gear. I can manually shift it into first okay, up shifting to second the transmission binds up and feels like the brake was applied. When shifting from first I have to shift quickly over second into third gear. After the enginge runs 20-30 minutes the transmission shifts perfectly. I just changed the filter and fluid which did not help. Could it be the ECU or a shift solenoid?
Submitted: 14/11/2013 14:37:05 | ID: 23065
My Mitsubishi Shogun revs high in fifth gear. What should I do?
Submitted: 14/11/2013 12:52:35 | ID: 23060
When cold my 3.5 litre petrol automatic Mitsubishi Shogun starts without trouble, but when the engine is warm, for instance if I have stopped the engine and then tried to restart it twenty or thirty minutes later, it tries to start but only on one or two cylinders it seems. It will struggle to keep going for a few seconds and then cut out. After about thirty to forty tries starting it will start, but it is getting worse and there is the worry that the battery will run flat before it starts. Any ideas would be much appreciated please? (3.5 petrol
Submitted: 11/11/2013 11:12:42 | ID: 22900
Hi, my Mitsubishi Shogun elegance 07 plate has started cutting out at junctions. Some days it’s fine, then others it’s bad. If I’m idling the car revs blip and you can see the needle twitching as well as feel the engine change revs. Then it will either get to the point of stall and recover or will just cut out. It starts again fine, but I have the same problem when I go to stop. It only really had the problem when stationary in Drive or Reverse, but it is now doing it in Park too. The first garage I took it to said there were no fault codes and to be honest didn’t really dig any further than that. Please can someone shed some light on this? Thanks. (3.2 elegance automatic)
Hi, it sounds like the fuel pump. I had the same problem on the later model and ended up replacing it. - Marcus Porthouse from Herefordshire
Submitted: 08/11/2013 11:44:39 | ID: 22854
Where is the headlight fuse on my Mitsubishi Shogun?
Submitted: 08/11/2013 11:40:49 | ID: 22853
Hi. I had a new alternator fitted by Mitsubishi to my Mitsubishi Shogun under warranty because if I leave the car for a couple of weeks without starting it the battery is totally dead. Mitsubishi are now looking to change the battery. My concern is that the battery fitted is too small for this car as it`s a 80D26L and on the L200 and the Outlander it`s a 90D31L. Can anyone explain why this is?
Submitted: 05/11/2013 12:47:51 | ID: 22740
My Mitsubishi Shogun cut out and now there are no ignition lights and the car doesn`t even turn over when you turn the key. What is wrong with it?
Submitted: 04/11/2013 15:54:18 | ID: 22686
My Mitsubishi Shogun`s nearside flasher lights stay on all of the time after parking and the immobiliser kicks on, then the n/s flasher lights stay on. How do I fix this?
Submitted: 04/11/2013 10:49:24 | ID: 22642
My Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 DiD starts up and runs okay, but after running for a while when the engine has warmed up it runs very roughly on tickover. It has been in the garage and had filters and thermostat replaced but the problem continues. I am beginning to think it may be the injectors or the EGR valve but these are expensive with no sure certainty of results. I have used injector cleaning additive and EGR cleaning spray but the engine still runs the same. Any clues? (3.2 DiD)
Hi Stuart, I had the same problem, went to main dealer was told it was the injectors. I phoned a diesel pump specialist and was told diesel pump at £1800+vat. I spoke to a chap in Huddersfield, he advised me to disconnect the secondary thermal switch underneath the inlet manifold number 1 cylinder and I then cleaned out the vaccum sensor (you will find this is clogged up) on the inlet manifold which runs to the acctuator on the bulk head (follow the long black plastic pipe to the bulk head, you can’t miss it) clean out the thermal switch on the throttle body (there’s only one) these do get carboned up. Finally, under the battery tray there is a mounting plate with a number of acctuator solenoids, check the terminals for corrision, and clean, as the batteries will dribble acid straight on top of them causing bad connections. Try this as it worked for me - Rob Donaldson from Hampshire
Submitted: 29/10/2013 10:21:54 | ID: 22398
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My Mitsubishi Shogun 2000 flasher lights inside stay on after locking with the key or fob. Can anybody help?
Submitted: 28/10/2013 15:02:02 | ID: 22339
Hi, I have just bought a 2003 Mitsubishi Shogun 3.2 auto warrior. My problem is when I come to a junction and hold it on the brakes a wee second then go to pull off again the engine dies, but it will start again no problem. I was wondering if anyone had come across this problem before? I have changed the diesel filter. Please let me know if you’ve had this problem? Thanks.
Hi, sorry I haven’t got an answer but was wondering if you ever did find out what was wrong. I have the same issue on 07 Shogun Elegance auto box. Hope you can help, thanks - Andy Thorpe from Leicestershire
Submitted: 28/10/2013 09:54:00 | ID: 22275
Hi there. I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Shogun Pajero swb 2.8 and have a fuel problem. When you first start it up in a morning it will kick up first time, run for about 2 minutes and then die. After 2 - 3 times trying to start it it will kick up again and then run all day with no problems. I`ve been told fuel may be backing up overnight. Does anybody have any ideas please as it`s driving me mad?
Mine did the same, found air was getting in from a broken rubber seal on the manual pump on the fuel filter head, put ptfe on the thread and solved the problem - Paul Whitworth from Portugal
Submitted: 24/10/2013 14:23:24 | ID: 22145
What is the little black box on the driver`s side footwell l/h/s in my Mitsubishi Shogun and should it be left on? There are a few buttons to press? (pajero 2.5)
Submitted: 24/10/2013 11:42:24 | ID: 22124
My Mitsubishi Shogun is fine during normal daily use and on long journeys but, when towing my caravan (kerb weight 1700kg), the engine temperature rises and the gauge goes into the red if I do not stop when climbing a long minor incline or a short steep hill. On a level road or short climb the gauge remains steady at normal. What should I do?
Submitted: 24/10/2013 10:40:42 | ID: 22107
Where is the reverse light switch located on the Mitsubishi Shogun and is it easy to remove and replace? Thanks for your help.
Submitted: 18/10/2013 15:24:17 | ID: 21917
Recently I noticed the gearstick on my Mitsubishi Shogun Warrior automatic was stiff and hard to shift. Now sometimes it will only start in neutral gear. Can anybody help me? (Warrior)
Hi just sorted this on my 2006 Shogun field 3.2 auto. The linkage on the nearside of the gearbox can seize up or stiffen, this stops park engaging firmly. The answer for me was copious application of penetrating fluid whilst a pal begins gently working the lever in the cabin.You may have to remove the guard covering it to gain access. Hope this helps. - Ian Miller from England
Submitted: 10/10/2013 15:33:51 | ID: 21817
Has anybody got a wiring diagram for the rear lights of my Mitsubishi Shogun? The bumper lights are fine, it’s the high ones I have a problem with. (2.8 Gls LWB)
Submitted: 01/10/2013 11:24:42 | ID: 21458
Can anybody tell me why my Mitsubishi Shogun seems to mis-fire between 40 and 50 mph? (warrior)
Submitted: 01/10/2013 11:14:41 | ID: 21454
I have just bought the Mitsubishi Shogun 2.5 diesel. It takes a lot of glow plug and then some accelerator to start. Does it need new glow plugs? Thanks. (Shogun diesel 2.5)
Submitted: 24/09/2013 14:08:53 | ID: 21249
There is a position in the rear cluster for indicators. This is the best position, for following vehicles to see. Why then, are the indicators in the bumper, and difficult to be seen by following vehicles. Can I get my cluster indicators working as well as the bumper indicators? (DIAMOND)
In the UK the lights have been disabled by the authorities as the offside is obliterated by the spare wheel when the door is open at night - Dave Good from Surrey
Submitted: 17/09/2013 10:06:49 | ID: 20985
Hi. My Mitsubishi Shogun`s central locking is having a funny half hour, it is going up and down like mad when you enter or leave the car. The battery is fine. It stops if you hold the lock down. Please can anyone help?
Submitted: 10/09/2013 12:08:02 | ID: 20885
I have recently blown a fuse accidentally by carelessly shorting out when changing an internal bulb on my Mitsubishi Shogun. To my surprise a significant fraction of the electrics have failed, although the car is still driveable with difficulty but probably not safely. According to the manual, fuse 18 in the engine bay fuse box is the likely culprit - however this is not removable because of a yellow plastic shroud surrounding it and an adjacent fuse. So, what’s the most likely fuse to replace? Thanks. (diesel 3.2 long wheel base)
Submitted: 05/09/2013 14:29:12 | ID: 20757
I have a Mitsubishi Shogun Sport which we only use in the winter. When we last parked it up it was fine but now it takes a long time churrning on to start. When it does start it won`t tick over smoothly, it dies then picks up then dies again. When I drive it on stopping it runs lumpy then picks up, it will run for a few miles and then lose power before picking up again. I have been told it may be the fly by wire fuel pump. Does anyone know what I should do please?
Have you tried fresh diesel and a new fuel filter... it sounds contaminated - Roger Damage from England
Submitted: 03/09/2013 16:30:12 | ID: 20719
I have a Mitsubishi Shogun Pajero 1992 short wheel base 2.5 diesel. My fuel lines have rotted by the tank. I have removed it and there are 3 pipes going to a unit mounted on the cross member, also 2 going to a unit tucked up by the filler tube. There are steel pipes on top of the tank. I don’t know what all these are and can I do without them? Does anyone have a diagram which shows and names these parts and could offer some advice? (Pajero)
Submitted: 27/08/2013 10:11:27 | ID: 20540
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Shogun. Intermittently, and often after a full service, the car loses power at about 2000 rpm. It feels like there is a blockage of some kind. In the past it has righted itself after a week or so. Sometimes the power loss is so great it will not go up the slightest incline and the only solution is to turn the engine off which often gets the power levels up again. Sometimes the engine management light for the filter comes on but other times not. The other symptom is a knocking and wheeze seeming to come from behind the driver, somewhere in the exhaust system I’m thinking. My mechanic has recommended driving it at max revs on the motorway for a period, which I have tried to no avail. Any thoughts?
Sounds like your DPF filter is blocked up. The fault code should be stored in the ECU, get it plugged in at a good workshop and it will tell you the fault. Hope this helps. - Mick Murrin from Derbyshire
Submitted: 08/08/2013 11:23:55 | ID: 20427
I`ve just bought a Mitsubishi Shogun and the day after I bought it it started spewing out black smoke. I took it to a garage who said that the oil had been overfilled and there was approx 2 litres too much oil. I got the dealer I bought it from to check it out. They have said that it wasn’t overfilled, just a valve that had stuck causing too much air and so too much diesel to be mixed, leading to the smoking and it will be okay. A mechanic has told me be that the value will have stuck because there was too much oil and there could still be damage to the catalytic converter. Any advice would be great as I’m not sure what to say when the dealer says that the car will be fine. Any suggestions please?
Submitted: 25/07/2013 12:55:39 | ID: 20212
I`ve just purchased a 53 plate Mitsubishi Shogun 3.5 V6 and at 3000 revs it shudders and wants to accelerate. The seller claims it to be dirt in one of the two petrol pumps and the micro filter may be a little clogged. Am I being spun a line and does anyone have any idea of the root cause please?
Submitted: 02/07/2013 09:21:42 | ID: 19904
I have a Mitsubishi Shogun and the motor stopped running while driving at about 60kph. We have checked and found that the cam shaft is not turning when the motor is cranked. What would cause this and would there be any damage to the head and or valves? Are the timing gears geared or on a timing chain? The motor swings fairly easily.
Cam belt has failed - could well have damaged the valves and / or pistons - John Greenslade from Powys
If you have a 2.5d then you have a timing belt and a balance shaft belt. These must be replaced ar a manufacturers set schedule. Sounds like you need a set of belts. Please note... you may have damaged some valves. I suggest you download the correct timing info and replace belts 1st. Do comp chk - Roger Damage from England
Submitted: 07/06/2013 14:23:52 | ID: 19613
Hi. My Mitsubishi Shogun 07 new shape 3.2 is making oil, the diesel is getting into the oil. I have had the injectors changed about a month ago and it was fine but now the problem`s started again. We are baffled as to what it could be? Please can anyone help?
You’ll find that the injector pump seal has gone at the front, get it changed and it should be fine - Ian Bedford from Lincolnshire
Hi, is your DPF light coming on? If so the filter is full on the exhaust and putting fuel into the engine. - Martin Fowler from Worcestershire
Submitted: 07/06/2013 08:42:15 | ID: 19590
Mitsubishi Shogun: bought a bull/nudge bar but it just would not hook up. It’s a long bar reaching to the bonnet and has a sump grill at the bottom. Three inch stainless steel. Please help.
Submitted: 28/05/2013 14:54:25 | ID: 19474
I`m looking to fit to my Mitsubishi Shogun an all-in-one head unit Kenwood DNX7160 as first choice. It is a double din, will it fit? If not what other choices for head units exist? I want the full bluetooth hands free coverage as well. Any suggestions please? (3dr 3.2)
Hi. I Have a Kenwood DNX7200 if you are interested - Phil Connor from Cambridgeshire
Submitted: 23/04/2013 08:55:37 | ID: 19082
I have a Mitsubishi Shogun SWB that is getting water into the transfer box causing the oil to emulsify. The transfer box has been flushed out but still the oil emulsifies. It has not been through deep water. Any ideas please? (SWB)
Submitted: 10/04/2013 14:40:30 | ID: 18932
Hi, I am having trouble with the battery in my Mitsubishi Shogun. I cannot leave any doors open for any amount of time, even with cab lights etc off, as the battery will drain and the car won’t start. I have the same issue if the vehicle is not driven for a couple of days. Any ideas? (Elegance)
It sounds like your alternator is playing up Michelle. I think they’re around £100 mark, but best check that at your local motor factor`s store – Dan from England
Hi, I had the same problem when jump started it was fine so long as I made no short trips or left the door ajar. I got new batt £92 and all is good would make sure you change it before winter cos problem will get alot worse - Marcus from Angus (Forfarshire)
Disconnect the alt and chk battery drain. If it still high, disconnect starter motor. Either can have a high current drain and cause flat battery - Roger Damage from England
Submitted: 02/04/2013 14:06:42 | ID: 18796
I was involved in a car accident during the last lot of snow we had (18 January). A car couldn’t stop and hit me from behind. The driver’s side of my Mitsubishi Shogun had the rear lights smashed, the rear bumper and the spare wheel cover was shredded. The bumper was shunted forward on the driver`s side. The car was away for repairs for two weeks. I’d had it back for just over a week when a problem occurred. The AA confirmed the rear coolant pipe had burst and it was undriveable. (No dashboard lights were on and it was not overheating). It was taken by low loader to my usual service garage who confirmed it had been damaged in the accident and it should have been part of the repairs. The repairers are disputing this fact, claiming that the pipe was corroded anyway and the garage should have picked up on this on the previous service. I have had 3 independent people with experience of Shoguns who have advised that although the pipe may be corroded, this is a normal thing to happen with all Shoguns and it would take a serious jolt to cause the pipe to fracture and lose all it`s coolant. I might add at this point that the car had little use from the time it was returned from the garage, or it might have happened sooner had I been on my normal weekly runs. In the meantime LV (Liverpool Victoria) insurance are disputing the fact I should have a hire car as they feel (from their engineer`s report) that this hasn’t been caused by the car accident. However their engineer seems to think the pipe has split at the front of the car, when it hasn’t! It has actually split at the rear. I have requested a second inspection. In the meantime I am without a car while the two garages argue the case. What I would like to know is how expensive is this likely to be, should the whole pipe from front to back need replacing and how likely is it that a serious jolt in the rear can cause the rear heater pipe (corroded or not) to split/burst? My garage have said this will be very expensive but until they order the parts they don’t know how much! Assuming this has been caused by the accident, it will be covered under the third party insurance. Any advice would be much appreciated. Any suggestions please? (Equippe)
I owned and ran a pro bodyshop for 30 years and can assure you that a car driving into your Shogun can cause a serious shock that may cause all sorts of future problems... broken wiring looms, ecu faults, dashboard faults and fractured pipes... this is why lots of cars are written off. Assessors cannot possibly see all the faults so they allow a small percentage to cover eventualities - Roger Damage from England
Submitted: 01/03/2013 16:23:19 | ID: 18323
I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Shogun 2.5 td swb. The problem I`m having is that I keep losing the top bolt from my starter motor. I`ve replaced it 3 times and re-tapped the holes but it`s just happened again! Does anyone know why or how I can fix this problem as I would like to keep this vehicle?
Make sure the threads are clean and use Loctite threadlock, alternatively drill the bolt head with a 1/8" bit and use seizing wire - David Wright from London
Submitted: 14/02/2013 10:53:56 | ID: 18022