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Hello there, I had recently changed the heating board, it was working fine. But it doesn't give cold air at all, even I change to cold mode. As of now, Heating stopped working. All I am getting is cold air, no matter either in hot or cold mode. Anyone please help with this. Many thanks, barani.
probably the heater valve stuck. its under the bonnet at the back near the windscreen and feeds the heater matrix. it has a little motor in it and if you get some one to opporate the heater dial (ign on) you should be able to feel the motor working if you hold it ian bonnick from Spain
Submitted: 12/04/2014 21:11:27 | ID: 94148
I have a Ford Transit Box Van and when I turn the lights on there is a loud beeping noise. Very annoying. Has anybody any experience of this?
when exiting your vehicle there is a warning sound if you leave your lights on, maybe its faulty and staying on when your driving. leigh bennett from Cardiff
Submitted: 04/03/2014 10:38:16 | ID: 62515
My Ford Transit has a clicking noise coming from the front wheel. Can anybody help please?
CV joint on the drive shaft. leigh bennett from Cardiff
Submitted: 07/04/2014 09:48:57 | ID: 93565
I`ve just bought a 2003 1.8 Ford Mondeo LX and the button for the windscreen wash won’t work. When I push the button in the wipers move but there`s no squirt of water and no noise from the motor either. I had someone look at it and he said it seems to be a positive and no negative or the other way round. He told me it`s coming from the wires and I would need to replace the whole steering unit. Can anyone help?
It's possible the jets are blocked? Or it's got heaters on the jets which take a while to warm up. Try holding the button in for around thirty seconds. Dave from West Midlands
Submitted: 11/03/2014 09:11:09 | ID: 62743
Hello, why is my Ford Galaxy sometimes losing power? It hits some kind of flat spot, gets up to around 50 mph and no more, very strange. It`s not a regular occurance and as I want to pull a caravan loss of power could be a major problem. Can anyone help with this please? (zetec 19 tdi diesel)
My diesel galaxy also losses power.. just under the edge of the engine cover on the right hand side is the turbo sensor.. take off the two screws and take off the sensor that sits in the pipe the white sensor node will probably have oil residue on it. So get a can of brake cleaner and spray over the node to clear oil residue off then shake and blow it dry then put it back.. i have to do this every 2 to 3000 miles which only takes me 3 mins and saves me buying a new turbo.... let me know by reply if this was your problem.. happy motoring john wood from Essex
Submitted: 13/03/2014 11:23:08 | ID: 62766
My 2007 Ford Galaxy ghia petrol just loses power and stops after 10 minutes. I can turn the key again and it starts. Last year my fuel pump was changed but I still have this problem. It`s done 152472 km. I did a scan for error codes but nothing is showing up. Can someone help me with this problem?
Not sure if it will be the same as my diesel galaxy loss of power.. just under the edge of the engine cover on the right hand side is the turbo sensor.. take off the two screws and take off the sensor that sits in the pipe it has a white sensor node that will probably have oil covering it. Get a can of brake cleaner and spray over the node to clear oil residue off then shake and blow it dry and put it back.. i have to do this every 2 to 3000 miles which only takes me 3 mins and saves me buying a new turbo.... please remember my galaxy is a diesel and not sure if you have the same turbo sensor on a petrol galaxy let me know by reply if this works on your petrol galaxy.. happy motoring john wood from Essex
Submitted: 20/03/2014 15:32:22 | ID: 63071
I have a Ford Galaxy and the Abs fault both abs and brake lights on the dashboard come on. Sometimes it`s just the abs light. When both lights are off on the dashboard braking makes a horrible grating sound at the end of braking before the car stops. When it`s just the abs light on the same occurs, however when both lights are on the car`s braking is absolutely fine. All braking sensors have been changed with this problem still existing. What could be the fix to the problem please? I have been told that it could be the ecu brake pump giving false information to the sensors. I know that this could be a costly repair. Besides the abs pump is there anything else that could be causing the problem? I looked around and no-one else has had the exact symptoms. Any help would be grateful. (1.9 TDI)
...hi matt.. My mechanic, who’s a mate with kind mates rates, eliminated all the usual and computer fault codes faults first. He then got blue prints from VW for the elecrical wires that operate the brakes and ABS system. The problem you may have as it sounds exactly like i had is to do with the fuse box in the engine bay that runs straight off from the battery. When you open the fuse box there are three small fuses, two 30amp and one 3amp. There is a plug that plugs into the right of the fuse box that operate the voltage to the ABS and brake system. Get your garage to check the voltage there as I had 12 volts coming into the fuse box but only about 7 going out into the plug. Replace this box and keep the old one for spares or ask garage to repair this fuse box as my mechanic has done. This should then fix the handbrake light and the ABS light on the dashboard, which is an MoT failure. If you still have problems with the handbrake light my mechanic said that my cable somewhere on the underneath of car was rubbing into one of the tubes to protect it and was starting to wear the cable. Hope the fuse box all gets sorted out for you. Happy motoring. john wood from Essex
Submitted: 21/03/2014 12:23:31 | ID: 63176
My Ford Galaxy`s central locking won’t work even though I’ve changed the battery in the fob. Any ideas?
To reset your key fob close all windows and doors, insert key into passenger`s front door within 5 seconds turn key to the unlock position 3 times to enter programing mode (driver`s door led should be lit), remove key. Program mode is only active for 15 seconds so press and hold the lock button on key fob within 5 seconds and press the unlock button 3 times (while holding down the lock button), then release the lock button.(Correct programming indicated by led flashing 5 times and driver`s door led flashing 6 times). Key fob should now be reset. If this did not work in the passenger`s door then try in the driver`s door.Please let me know if this worked? Thanks. john wood from Essex
Submitted: 07/04/2014 15:29:13 | ID: 93963
My Ford Ka has just started changing direction randomly at speeds over 40 mph, it feels as if it’s been caught by a gust of wind, any suggestions as to the cause? There’s no obvious knocking or rumbling sounds and at lower speeds it doesn’t seem to happen, tyres are all ok and no advisories referring to the steering or wheel bearings on last MOT. thanks
Either tyre pressure or steering rack I suspect. Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
Submitted: 26/03/2014 14:25:23 | ID: 93576
For the last 6 weeks my Ford Fiesta zetec has had an intermittent fault. When I use the key fob to unlock the car, the indicator/sidelights don’t flash, the doors unlock but the boot doesn’t. There are no lights on the dashboard and when I put the key in the ignition the key will turn a quarter turn but no further, so the car won’t start. If I open and shut either the driver`s door or passenger`s door once or twice, the lights on the dashboard come on and I am able to start the car. I have also noticed that it stops the clock when this happens and resets some of the readings on the trip computer. For the last two weeks it has done it every morning, before that it happened once every few days. Has anybody got any ideas please? (Zetec)
Have you had any luck with this problem, my Fiesta has been doing this off and on for the last few weeks, but the garage can’t find anything. Denise Buckingham from Sussex
It turns out that this was a loose cable to the battery. Denise Buckingham from Sussex
Submitted: 03/02/2014 15:06:19 | ID: 61659
Hi, on the way home today my Ford Ka let out a clunk noise and then the petrol gauge dropped quickly. I pulled over had a look at the tyres and under the car to see if anything had dropped or had a ,but can`t see anything although it is pitch black outside and I`m looking at this with a torch. There is definately no petrol leaking so I`m looking for ideas on what to look for? Cheers.
Are you still there? Do you need a lift? Steve from England
Submitted: 16/12/2013 14:41:50 | ID: 56159
I can’t for the life of me work out where to fill up the rear wiper on my Ford Focus.? Can you help? (Trend)
The washer bottle in the engine bay feeds both front and rear washers. Graham from Kent
Submitted: 27/02/2014 09:25:38 | ID: 62379
Can anyone tell me why my Ford Transit Tipper 2005 2.4 90bh keeps cracking the oil filter cap and losing all it`s oil? I have replaced the plastic oil cap, then two months later it does it again. When the engine is running allright if you take the oil filler cap off it doesn`t seem to have any back pressure. Can anyone help me? Thankyou.
I am having the same trouble, only thing is the driver drove it till it seized solid. Replaced its cover 3 months ago and it went again today John O’Neill from Ireland
Is it air getting in? Check the fuel line from the tank. Alan Jones from Somerset
Submitted: 07/12/2012 10:14:13 | ID: 55186
Hello. Please can anyone tell me how to change the bulb on the temperature dial and fan speed dial of my Ford Ka? Both are on the left above the gear stick. All others are okay so I presume this is the problem.
Yeah. There will be a couple of screws on the panel around it, one may be once you remove the ashtray. Unscrew the panel (you may have to pull the three knobs off fan/temp) and the bulbs will be there. Literallly pennies to replace. Make sure the lights are off when replacing and check they work before re screwing the panel on. Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
I’m having the same problem but I can’t figure out what bulb to buy. Mine’s a 2009 KA, Ford has quoted me £65 for a new one! Vikki Jones from England
Submitted: 30/01/2014 12:11:39 | ID: 61489
Hi. My Ford Kuga`s driving lights aren’t working but the dim and the high beam are fine. Are there two fuse boxes as my hubby says he’s checked the ones near the glove compartment and they seem fine? Is it a warranty thing? Do I need a Relay?
Hello all! My Kuga has the same problem but only the passenger side. Full beam and daytime lights work but not the dip beam. At first I thought it was the HID but it isn’t and then I checked the fuses and the fuses all seem to be fine. Only thing I can put it down to is the relay so if anyone knows what relay it is can you let me know aswell? Ryan Calvert from Pembrokeshire
Submitted: 21/11/2013 10:44:51 | ID: 58170
My 04 Ford Ka has passed its MOT but seems to be very heavy when turning right. Could you tell me what could be wrong? Thank you.
Power steering on the way out? Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
Submitted: 07/03/2014 10:04:16 | ID: 62638
I was driving my Ford Ka earlier and it was fine, 15-20 minutes after last being driven I went to drive it again and as I put my foot on the brake I noticed the pedal went right to the floor. As I pumped the brake pedal it went back to normal but then 10 minutes later the pedal went straight to the floor again. It keeps happening now. My brother had a quick look and from what he could see there was no leak. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Either airnor water in your brake fluid. Try to bleed the brakes Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
Submitted: 28/02/2014 09:03:20 | ID: 62410
I have a Ford Focus C-Max 1.6 diesel Ghia. While driving sometimes revs go to 3000 rpm and then it starts to reduce power and the more much gas I give the more the power decreases. If I then stop and power off the engine when it starts again everything goes back to normal. This morning I switched on my car and it powered off itself in a few seconds. I’ve tried a lot but it won’t start anymore. When I took it for a service I tried again and now it starts normally. The service man tested the car with their computer but no error was displayed. Can anyone help me? I don`t know what to do.
Sounds like you have a sticking EGR valve. Phil Summerfield from Staffordshire
I had the same problem with my Ford Focus. It just needed transmission fluid. Sam from England
Submitted: 16/01/2014 10:31:44 | ID: 60699
Hi. My Ford Transit van’s been driving fine without any problems. I went out today and on the way back with no warning the temperature gauge went into the red and the van stopped. I started it straight back up and drove it back home fine. What could have caused this?
The splines are worn in the water pump so it’s only partially efficient. Rosie from Herefordshire
Submitted: 11/02/2014 14:48:13 | ID: 62016
My Ford Focus’ brake lights are staying on. I have checked the switch and it is not that. They stay on when I am not using the brake pedal. What is causing this problem please?
On the brake pedal you have two switches for your brake lights, either one of both of them are bad or the pedal is bended and it doesn’t activate the switch when you push it. Anyway, those are the only possible problems for you question. Take the switches off and try to push them with your hand, if you see your lights working you got your answer if not then check the voltage on the harnesses and finally just replace the switches. Max-777Motors from United States of America
I changed my brake switch on it I’m dealing with the same problem once you drive and accelerate to thirty miles and up they stay on and the other is for cruise control dohh or can that affect the brake lights too Eli Elirodz from United States of America
Submitted: 17/02/2014 10:24:23 | ID: 62156
My Ford Focus will only shift into reverse if the engine is revved, then jolts into gear. It seems to drive fine in drive, without any jerky shifting between gears, but will jerk slightly when driving between 30 and 40 mph. The fluid has no grittiness, and is the right colour. The car has 208,000 miles with rebuilt motor. What could the problem be and do I need a new transmission?
It’s your transmission, after a while your gears are gonna start sliding and go out on your transmission, just dealt with the same problem Eli Rodz from United States of America
Submitted: 04/03/2014 15:15:52 | ID: 62569
My heaters in my Ford Ka have been blowing out hot air for months now and, having taken it to 2 garages who told me I was imagining it, I thought nothing of it. Then I googled the problem and found out it`s a common fault with the Ford Ka and that the heating will be on full lock on hot and will apparently only cost £36 to fix which is fine. However this overheating has caused another problem in the car - all the electrics (apart from windows and lights) have gone, so no back window heater etc and the A/C says it`s on all of the time, (obviously it`s using lots of petrol and water), but the hot air is still blowing out. Any idea how to get this fixed or roughly how much it will be? I don`t want to get the mickey taken out of me again, since I knew there was a problem ages ago and this other problem wouldn`t have happened if they believed me then! Thanks.
I have exactly the same problem happen to my KA ’06. I am now having to pay £65 to get my dash board lights fixed even though my mechanic told me they fixed my heating problem, which cost me £65 then as well. Now I know there is a link and the same garage is fixing my electronics; I think I’m going to point it out when I go down there next. Sorry I couldn’t help you with your problem, I just thought to let you know you’re not the only one. Beth from Caerphilly
Submitted: 14/02/2014 09:42:30 | ID: 62098
My Ford Focus C-MAX`s heater control fan switch only works on settings 3 and 4. Can anybody help me to resolve this problem? (tdci)
I don’t know where it is on those but it sounds just like a resistor for the heater fan motor. That’s what a fault like that would usually be Richard Betts from Warwickshire
Common problem on all cars. The heater blower fan is most often used on settings 1 or 2. And so the heater resistors eventually burn out leaving settings 3 and 4 ok. Garage or auto electrician will replace the heater blower fan resistor pack for about £60 or £70. John Delissen from Stirlingshire
Submitted: 01/10/2012 10:40:59 | ID: 81311
Hi, I`ve got a dangerous problem. When I start my Ford Mondeo it ticks over high, no problem there as it has to warm up, but when I drive the car it feels like I`m not in control of the throttle. For example going along at 30 mph I take my foot off the pedal and it sticks at 30 mph on 1500 rpm. Also as I come to stop it just feels like it wants to keep going. I`ve also noticed when I put my foot on the clutch it sticks at 1500 rpm for about 5 seconds then drops to 1000 rpm, not even idle speed as the book says 750-850 rpm on idle. I have replaced the throttle position sensor, coolent temperature sensor, I have had the idle control valve off and cleaned it with carb cleaner but still the same, no difference. I have listened for air leaks in the engine bay but there`s nothing. I`m getting a new iscv next week just to make sure. I would like to know if anyone else has had the problem on their Mondeo mk2 1.8 16v Zetec and had it fixed? Thanks. (Zetec)
This is normal. This feature is called "inertia control", it is also known under other names. Basically the servo motor in the throttle body keeps the throttle opened for 1-2 seconds longer or so, to make gear shifting easier. This happens when putting throttle pedal back to the normal, tickover position. The throttle switch & potentiometer both detect the event and the ECU compares that with car speed, simply applying accelerator if the car is moving. It also helps to control car "jumping" forward, when rolling on a low gear (1st or 2nd) in a traffic jam. I got 1.8 estate and I find the latter feature especially useful. Later models, such as my new Fiesta Mk7, which has fully electronic throttle (fly-by-wire), have this behaviour less pronounced, but it’s there too Arek from Poland
That’s NOT normal. Get a diagnostic test done Martin from England
Thanks guys, anyway I can disable this feature as I’m not happy about it at all. I’m even thinking of selling it because of this Lee Cooper from England
There’s a modification for the ISCV to fix this problem. Go to Mad Moles Mondeo Madness page for the details. Tony Hull from Australia
Submitted: 13/12/2012 15:23:09 | ID: 65470
What does it mean when my Ford Transit`s headlights go dim whenever I turn another electrical device on inside the van such as the heater or radio?
It means the hidro confabulator is on its way out, usually caused by the prefix deligator on the stand alone fuel management system. Either replace the confabulator with a remit triple gague perpitisor or take it to fords for a total ecu programme remap Straight talkin Shaun from England
You probably just have a bad earth or the headlight relay is weak. Slaash from England
Submitted: 22/11/2012 09:16:10 | ID: 59854
I have an 06 Ford Transit lwb and sometimes the accelerator slowly rises to 1200 rpm on its own and stays there, running on high revs in neutral. It corrects itself once I’ve turned the engine off and on again. What is the matter with it and what do I need to do to fix it? Please help!
Go to your Ford dealer and get them to put it on the computer. Sometimes the throttle pedal can be at fault. Bob from Northern Ireland
Submitted: 18/02/2014 10:22:37 | ID: 62136
I have just aquired a 2004 Ford Transit 260 swb panel van. I cannot work out how to adjust the clock that is set up in the rev counter face. I can alter it to 24 or 12 hr but cannot put the time right. Does anyone know how?
There are two buttons, press and hold the one on the left for few seconds then the minutes will start flashing and use the button on the right to change the minutes. When finished press the button on left again and it will start to flash again, then used the one on the right to change the hours. When finished just leave it alone and will go back to normal. Andy Nellie from Middlesex
Submitted: 10/01/2014 12:31:37 | ID: 60578
My Ford Transit van has developed a jerking motion when accelerating and cruising which seems almost like a fuel starvation or misfire. It started after I had refuelled and then I used a solution of Redex fuel cleaner which resolved it. Since I have added more fuel and used Redex again the problem has started again. The engine does not seem to lack power but just causes the van to jerk. Is this a fuel injector problem or is it something more sinister? The engine has no problems starting and idling. I would be grateful for any assistance/suggestions? Thank you. (T260)
Hello. This is not an answer but I have the same problem in mine since yesterday after refuelling, there is loss of power and white smoke, please can you let me know when you find the answer. Daniel Garwe from England
Remove and clean EGR valve or replace. Martin Jones from Essex
Submitted: 14/02/2014 11:16:38 | ID: 62103
My Ford Transit takes a while to start and is smoky when first started but seems okay after 5 minutes. I also seem to lose power at 3000 revs in every gear. I`ve changed the air and fuel filters. Does anybody know what`s wrong?
Not an answer, but mine has same problem, taking a while to start and white smoke, but fine once it’s warm with no loss of power. If there is a loss of power it must be minimal because haven’t noticed, so let me know if you get answer. Kay from England
Submitted: 18/02/2014 10:37:26 | ID: 62138
I have changed my Ford Focus’ C-MAXs map sensor, reprogrammed it and the next day the light came on again. Could anyone tell me what else could it be? (diesel)
Mine did the same. I put a new battery on and the problem was gone. Rich Powell from England
Submitted: 09/12/2013 14:44:11 | ID: 58983
I have a recurring problem with my Ford Focus. I’ve had it for a few years and every now and again the following happens: when I pull away from being stopped, I accelerate through first, second and then suddenly the car starts decelerating and the engine stalls. I’ve learned that I can keep the wheels rolling, restart the engine and it’ll function fine after that for a period of hours / days / weeks before happening again eventually. It almost feels as if the engine is suddenly starved of air or petrol and freaks out - kind of like when you stick your hand over the end of a vacuum cleaner? This problem can happen when the engine is warm OR cool. and I’m not exactly putting the pedal to the metal either.. My local garage have shrugged their shoulders about this a few times. I was told that it might have been a blocked fuel filter and that to prevent this I should regularly ensure that I run the engine at high rpm to ’blow out the cobwebs’, but I do this every day! The car is a diesel btw and I would really appreciate anyone taking the time to offer their advice as I’m a bit stuck right now. Any ideas please? Thanks guys. (Econetic)
Try a new battery. Richard from Cumberland
Submitted: 23/01/2014 14:10:14 | ID: 61307
I have a Ford Transit Connect 2006 plate. The display dash flickers, no speedo reading, no fuel gauge reading, no rev counter reading and no temp gauge reading. The internal light flickers and relays behind the glove compartment clicks. Everything runs as normal when this happens. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
Had the same problem, dash flickers, no gauges work. I took it to Ford, new speedo fitted and programmed into van memory costing £900. Ford recognised this fault on the Focus and will repair them cheap, but sorry not on the Connect. Peter Fotheringham from Fife and Kinross Shires
Submitted: 25/02/2014 08:56:06 | ID: 62069
I lose the sound from my speakers in my Ford S-MAX except centre but at a low level, with a clicking type of sound and the words "drive fault " comes up on the Sony unit. Does anybody know what causes this to happen? Also under hard acceleration in 3/4 gears the engine seems to hesitate a little then pick up. It will keep doing it until you stop accelerating, it feels like a rocking type of motion. I hope things don’t come in 3’s. Any help will be great. (Titanium)
Hi matey, did you sort out CD player fault and was it a easy fix? Ben Moss from England
I have exactly the same problem displayed as "CD drive fault" with my S-Max from 2010. I also experience that to clear the fault, the car must be turned off and locked for several minutes and that a short power off/on cycle is not enough! I have noticed that the fault can be triggered by placing a mobile phone on the upper left speaker on the dashboard, so I suspect some kind of radio interference problem in the S-Max. It also appears more often on the high-way than in the city (maybe the mobile phone uses more power when far away from base stations?) Of course the error never appears at the Ford service center so they have so far not been able to solve this problem. Linus from Sweden
We have exactly the same issue. Has anyone got to the bottom of this yet? Hannah Swain from London
Ford now seem to have a software update, which solves this problem with S-Max and the sony audio. I visited Ford service a few weeks ago, they updated the sound system, and since then no CD drive fault! Linus Thrybom from Sweden
It’s pretty annoying we have the same problem with a 2010 Titanium x. Happens every other day and just comes out of the blue! Real shame as a great stereo. I’m going to get in touch with Ford as I can’t imagine our dealership will be much help; very friendly, but only interested in problems they see. Any suggestions would be appreciated :). If the car is switched off for more than 10 mins it usually corrects! Lee Bunn from England
Submitted: 15/11/2013 10:36:46 | ID: 57890
I am buying a Ford Transit Connect which looks good but the heater inside does not work. It has no power at all. Does anybody know what could be wrong and how to fix it? Thanks.
I had the same problem, but mine only worked on number 4. It’s the resister, I changed mine and it works spot on. You can get them off eBay for about £7, if you look in the passenger footwell in the back and remove the carpet you will see a cable and the resister is held in place by one screw. Just undo the screw and it pops out, put new one in and the cable on and job done, takes 5 mins. Darren Lawrence from Nottinghamshire
Submitted: 28/01/2014 12:01:41 | ID: 57223
I have owned a Ford Kuga 2008 for a month. On a cold morning when I go to start it the i symbol comes on the dash followed by engine malfunction. With a series of locking and unlocking the car I can get this to disappear and start the car. Then it will start properly for the rest of the day. Has anyone else experienced this? (2.0 diesel tdci)
I’ve had the same thing this morning only to be told that there is nothing wrong with the car by my local Ford dealer. Did you get any answers? Michael Ely from Norfolk
We have this approx every 3 mths, it’s a design fault. Ford have told my husband how to clear it, something to do with the clutch pedal and it takes seconds. Email again if you want to know how! Fay Hayward from England
Submitted: 28/01/2014 10:47:06 | ID: 61381
Hi, can anyone tell me why my Ford Focus has started to misfire? It doesn’t do it if I just rev it standing still, just when I change gear and revs are below 2000. When you set off it`s okay, then change to second gear and put your foot down a bit and it`s like a misfire a few times. Then as revs get high it`s okay but change gear and the same again. Does anyone know why it`s doing this?
Could be many things to be honest, but my guess would be a coil pack. Martin (Master technician 20+ years) from Durham
Try to have it scanned by a technician or anyone who’s got a car diag scanner. Coil pack is the common problem on them and in this case you will find a code or history of random missfire. Also, try to check your maintenance records, when did you have the spark plugs and wires replaced? Routine maintenance is the guarantee of your long car life. Max-777Motors from United States of America
Submitted: 10/01/2014 12:05:13 | ID: 60600
My Ford Focus is letting in water in the boot and on the drivers side floor and back seat floor. Any suggestions please?
I would recommend you to check the door frame seals and if they are all good then I am sure that you have a sunroof? If yes the sunroof water evacuating lines are either clogged or cracked (located on each corner of the sunroof assy behind your headliner). If none of those are an answer to your issue then see if you have a coolant loss in your system, if yes then a cracked heater core will be your answer; the fluid from the leak is going underneath your carpet upfront and the motion of driving it circulates the water back ’n’ forth getting the entire area wet. Max-777Motors from United States of America
Submitted: 14/01/2014 09:47:59 | ID: 60667
I own a 2002 Ford Focus zx3 2.0 Zetec engine. It needed the timing belt idler and tensioner replaced so I took it to a local mechanic. He calls me two days later, says I need a new engine because a compression / leak test has determined between cylinder one and two are blown via headgasket. I then have the car towed to Ford where they haven’t started inspecting this as of yet. What concerns me is Ford originally found the problem of the timing belt and said nothing about the headgasket at that time, but did inform me of no damage to valves and/or springs. Did the local mechanic purposely sabotage my engine? I have reason to believe this via my mother`s Caddy which was taken to the same guy years ago for a temperature sensor and two days later this same guy gives her the same story of headgasket blown between cylinders 1 and 2! I need help as I’m losing sleep trying to figure out what to do, it being my only means of transportation. PS the timing belt wasn’t on the car when I looked. I asked him about it and he said the belt had two teeth/grooves gone. Ford now have my vehicle, I should’ve never taken it to anyone other then Ford. Can anybody help me out?
Finding the right man for the job is an issue, why would you take your car to a place that you have doubts in? Weird choice, but anyway, you can have Ford perform a compression test on the vehicle that will actually inform you on your engine status. If initially your timing belt did have two broken teeth then 90% of the time you have a bent valve or more of them, the question is why did the car go to the shop? What were the initial symptoms? And yes, your mechanic can certainly bend the valves, but I doubt he will intentionally somehow burn the head gasket, on Z-Tec it’s not easy to do that. And if you do need just a gasket then why replace the engine? Replace the gasket. Max-777Motors from United States of America
Submitted: 28/01/2014 14:27:36 | ID: 61435
Hi, I have a problem with my Ford Ka. Whenever there’s heavy rain or I wash the car the passenger footwell becomes sodden. I have had it looked at twice and was told on the first occasion that the drain hole was blocked. My Ka still leaked so I went back to the same mechanic who did a water test etc. he then thought it was the door seal and did the necessary work. A week later, after a night of heavy rain, the footwell was sodden again. The mechanic and myself are at a loss with this. The car is parked at night on my drive which is on a slope, could this be affecting the leak? Does anyone have any ideas? This is seriously driving me nuts and any help will be greatly appreciated!
Park it on a slope the other way (i.e. reverse on if you normally drive it on forwards) and see if it still happens. Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
Open the bonnet and remove the plastic trim, which goes between the base of the screen and the rear of the bonnet. Get some silicone sealant and seal where there is a visual leak Dangerous Dave from Nottinghamshire
Hi Rebecca, just had this exact same problem on my 09 ka! By trade I’m an auto electrician on HGV’s, so water leaks really aren’t my area. Stripped the interior to find what I knew to be an entry point. As far as finding how it was getting in, no luck! I managed to get a post warranty claim from Ford UK. It turns out this is a well known issue on all early new shape KA’s. The water gets in through a bad patch in the seam sealant, on the rear crash membrane. The rear bumper needs to be removed, along with the interior, which isn’t actually difficult to do at all. The bumper, I’d leave to someone else! The seam sealant will need to be removed and new, re-applied! All in all I paid £280 and have received a free service and MoT as a part of goodwill. Definitely worth investigating, before paying their original request of £890! Hope this helps you out! Any further questions, don’t hesitate to contact me! Jack Hadfield from England
Submitted: 24/01/2014 09:29:38 | ID: 61296
I have a 53 plate Ford Fiesta 1.4 zetec and on Friday night the yellow engine symbol light in the rev counter side of the dash has started to stay on. Does this just mean it is due a service or something more sinister? I don`t have a Ford owners` manual to check to see what that symbol means when staying illuminated and can`t seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Can anybody enlighten me on this please?
You need an Eobd diagnostic to find out what the fault is. Scott Madmax from England
Submitted: 04/02/2014 16:11:52 | ID: 61750
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